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The palace first sprang to life as a pet project of then First Lady Imelda Marcos who wanted to showcase homegrown Filipino architecture at its finest. To do the job, she commissioned an architect named Francisco Mañosa to make her dream into a reality. Work began in 1978 and would be finished just in time for the visit to Manila of the then leader of the Roman Catholic Church, Pope John Paul II. Originally, the Coconut Palace was offered to be the guesthouse for the aforementioned pope, an offer which he would refuse. Eventually it did become a guesthouse for some visiting dignitaries like the Libyan leader Muammar Gadhafi, or Hollywood celebrity friends of Imelda like George Hamilton and Brooke Shields.

After the Marcoses’ ouster by People Power I, the Coconut Palace was not used for official functions for a long time, save for some regular tours. That was, until in 2010, when Vice President Jejomar Binay decided to make the Palace his official residence and office, the Vice President’s Malacañang if one may call that.

Mañosa would draw his inspiration from the abundance of coconut trees in the country. But despite it being called Coconut Palace, it’s not fully made of coconut lumber as some of the materials used in the building of this structure are other hardwood, though native here like the narra, mahogany, etc, still giving a Filipino flavor to this unique edifice. All in all, it is said that about 20,000 trees were used throughout its construction.

The Palace also sports much a hexagonal motif of sorts, which is actually in relation to the coconut roots of the building since that is the shape one might notice if you shave off the outer husk of the coconut, especially if you drink coconut juice from the fruit itself.

The Coconut Palace is a 2-level structure, the ground floor being where the dining area, reception area, and the library are located; the library being used currently as where the Vice President holds office in day-to-day functions.

the dining area

Upstairs are the living quarters, 7 of them named after the different places in the country: the Zamboanga, Marawi, Mountain Province, Pampanga, Ilocos, Bicol, and Iloilo. Each of them bearing artwork and other items identified with the place it came from or associated with. It is said that the Vice President uses the Bicol room as his bedroom, the room itself boasts of a good view of the Manila Bay just a few steps away.

Marawi items found at the Marawi room

bed found at the Ilocos Room

And yes, the Coconut Palace even has a swimming pool.

In a city that some have said has lost or ignored its own cultural identity, the Coconut Palace is one example how this is not true at all. On the contrary, it serves as an inspiration how our culture which tends to be overlooked by others can create something as beautiful as the Coconut Palace. Let this be a challenge for this present generation to preserve and promote the Filipino cultural identity and make it stand out among the rest of the world.

The Coconut Palace is open for tours which must be scheduled/arranged beforehand. For details, contact the Office of the Vice President at (+632) 8326791 ext. 119.

Acknowledgements to the Office of the Vice President for accommodating me throughout the tour.

© The Urban Roamer

Fast-forward to the year 1946. A year had passed since Manila suffered from utmost destruction brought about the by the war, more particularly during the Battle for Manila. As a a nation was trying to get its feet up from war, it was also gearing for eventual independence from the United States as was agreed upon almost 11 years past as part of the Tydings-McDuffie Law. There was one problem: the original intended venue for the ceremony was the Legislative Building, and it was still being reconstructed at the time, not to mention it being too small to hold an anticipated large crowd who would like to witness this historic event.

the carabao and tamaraw monuments mark the original spot of the Independence Grandstand, not the Grandstand that we see today contrary to what some believe. otherwise it would have taken a really long rope to raise the Philippine flag from the grandstand. refer to the video below

The decision was made to hold it in Rizal Park, but this time it would no longer be held on Wallace Field but on the open space directly fronting the Rizal Monument, which would be the spot where the carabao sculptures and other artwork now stand in its place. Juan Arellano, the architect behind the Metropolitan Theater and the Post Office Building, would design the so-called Independence Grandstand in neo-Classical style. In addition, a tall flagpole was erected between the monument and the grandstand which was to hoist the Philippine flag to symbolize the country’s sovereignty.

the Independence flagpole, made to stand about as high as the Rizal Monument itself

The independence celebrations occurred on the July 4, 1946 (surprisingly/not surprisingly, the same day that the United States celebrates its Declaration of Independence) as the festivities were documented on this video uploaded online:

For some reason, the original Independence Grandstand was demolished sometime after, but plans were made for a new grandstand. This time though, this were to be located right across the green open space, to be situated near the Manila Bay breakwater. Its architect Federico Ilustre (who also happens to be the same architect behind the Quezon Memorial Shrine) designed it in a way that made it reminiscent of the old Independence Grandstand, albeit in a more simple fashion by not adding the figures at the top. It was inaugurated just in time for the oathtaking of Pres. Elpidio Quirino in 1949, making him the first among the Philippine presidents who took their oath/made their inaugural address in the grandstand. This grandstand was officially named the Quirino Grandstand after he died in 1956.

Elpidio Quirino, the president after whom the present grandstand is named

Quirino Grandstand was originally designed to hold only a small number of spectators but over the years and succeeding presidential inaugurations saw it expand to the current 10,000 or so seating capacity it now enjoys, (counting the bleachers) though not much used often in non-presidential inauguration events, save for Independence day parades, some concerts, or other events like religious meets or races.

Sadly, Quirino Grandstand has also become synonymous with what is considered to be one of the most tragic hostage crises in the country’s history with the death of the hostage-taker and his 8 hostages who were all Chinese tourists in the country on August 23, 2010. A result of figurative unnecessary grandstanding, not to mention the poor handling by the authorities of the situation that resulted in tragedy.

Whatever grandiose or morose the Quirino Grandstand has been known for over the years, it still remains a landmark of a city whose story is as colorful, glorious, and tragic as the grandstand she hosts.

Acknowledgements to the former show on the ABS-CBN News Channel called “The Explainer” which detailed the history of the Quirino Grandstand. You can view the episode here.

© The Urban Roamer

Originally, and this was up to the end of the Spanish colonial era, Manila’s bayshore was only up to what is now the gutter of the northbound lane of Roxas Boulevard. So Luneta back then was really near the shore of Manila Bay, not to mention there was no Roxas Boulevard yet.

Manila’s expansion would begin during the American colonial period as reclamation work in the 1900’s extended farther Manila’s land area as part of Burnham’s Manila plan, thus expanding the significance of Luneta. I guess it was appropriate that they named this expanded part of the park as “New Luneta.”

Most of New Luneta is actually an open green space which is/was known as Burnham Field, after the aforementioned architect, its centerpiece being a tree planted by Pope Paul VI when he visited Manila in 1970 (Pope Paul VI being the first Catholic pope to visit the country) and a monument dedicated to the country’s first Catholic saint, San Lorenzo Ruiz.

One can find some visual art on display, particularly the murals and some interesting sculpture, counting as well the twin figures of the country’s famous horned beasts: the kalabaw and the tamaraw.

the Centennial clock which, sadly isn't functioning...tsk, tsk

But one prominent landmark, though overlooked at times, in this part of Rizal Park would be this little marker which bears the signage “KM 0.” Located just right infront of Rizal Park. this structure marks the beginning point of the measurement of travel distances to the different parts of Metro Manila and Luzon Island as a whole.

 It’s interesting to note that original Kilometer 0 was located in Intramuros, right in front of the Manila Cathedral till it was relocated to its present site sometime in the 20th century. A symbolic shift if you can call that which reflected the changing sociopolitical landscape that affected the country as a whole, as it tried to veer away from the influence of the Roman Catholic Church in the country.

Up next: final part of the Rizal Park series, as we talk about the evolution of what we now know as the Quirino Grandstand

© The Urban Roamer

One of those classic park attractions would the Flower Clock, which has been around since at least the 1960’s. It was recently renovated with the help of a private entity, though some have noted the older version of the Flower Clock looked better than the current one.

A few blocks away down from the clock is the park’s pool fountain, which recently was renovated such that the fountain gets all lighted up at night.

If you notice the immediate surroundings of the pool, you may notice a gallery of head busts of various Filipino figures in history who have led various struggles against colonial rule.

The park also boasts an open-air auditorium which serves as a venue for various presentations like film showings and concerts. Yes, the ones that are seen in the program “Concert at the Park” on the government TV network.

Nearby the auditorium is the park’s chess plaza where folks spend their leisure time here by, of course, playing chess. But it’s said that this venue becomes more lively in the evenings as it becomes a venue where people engage in spirited debates or marathon quizzing sessions. I have yet to witness those legendary sessions; here’s hoping I can witness such night soon.

Two different gardens, with separate admission fees can be found on the park’s western end which “sandwich” the auditorium and chess plaza. Up north is the Japanese Garden, with some Japanese-inspired designs and bonsai plants with it.

But the park at the south is the more famous one, probably because it offers wider space. This would be the Chinese Garden, with Chinese-inspired designs and a statue of the famed Chinese philosopher Confucius to compliment the area.

On the opposite end of the park can be found some interesting sculptures, each having some colorful histories to tell. One of which is this sculpture called La Madre Filipina. (the Filipina Mother) by a certain Martinez and retouched by a certain Mr. F. Caedo.

The sculpture is actually part of a 4-sculpture series which depicts the sacrifices of the Filipina mother which were placed on each end of the pre-war Jones Bridge that linked Binondo and Intramuros/Plaza Lawton along the Pasig River. With the bridge heavily damaged after World War II, 1 of the sculptures could no longer be found; the remaining 3 had to be moved elsewhere. Thus, one of them is the one we see today at Rizal Park while the other two were moved to the then part of the University of the Philippines campus which is now the Court of Appeals complex.

Next one is another sculpture that pertains to motherhood, in this case the motherland or Inang Bayan, entitled Binhi ng Kalayaan by Eduardo Castrillo. (Fruit of Freedom) It was a sculpture commissioned as part of the country’s centennial celebrations in 1996-1998. It was actually the former occupant of Valencia Circle before it was displaced by the current tenant, the Lapu-Lapu statue and got relocated to a more “discreet” area.

Located near the “Binhi” sculpture is an area known as “Plaza Noli Me Tangere” and its centerpiece is a fountain donated by the people of Wilhelmsfield, Germany in 1964. Rizal actually stayed in this town at while studying ophthalmology at the nearby Heidelberg University. It is said he would drink from this fountain from time to time, thus its significance.

Nearby is the bust of Rizal’s best friend, Austrian professor Ferdinand Blumentritt, with whom Rizal communicated the most throughout his life.

To be continued…

© The Urban Roamer

As I mentioned some posts ago, the Americans when they gazed upon what was then Bagumbayan Field already saw it as a potential center of the burgeoning power of the United States in the Philippines. And with Burnham’s vision of a “Manila Beautiful” set on the drawing board at least in 1905, the US colonial government was determined make that dream of Manila’s National Mall into reality. The first order of business is getting what would be Manila’s counterpart Washington monument for this planned Manila National Mall.

At the same time, the US, as early as 1901, already recognized the heroism of Jose Rizal, who died 5 years earlier on December 30. While the US had different ideas on how to promote Rizal, the proposal of building a memorial in his honor where he could be laid to rest was something even the Filipinos who were still resisting US rule could find hard to disagree with. So for the next 4 years, a fund raising was held for funding the proposed memorial.

Soon enough, these 2 ideas converged. With funds now in place, an art competition was soon set to determine the structure that will not only be worthy of Jose Rizal’s stature, but will also become the centerpiece of Manila’s National Mall as well as the ideal of a “Manila Beautiful” as Burnham envisioned. About forty participants exhibited their proposals but ultimately, an Italian sculptor named Carlo Nicoli bagged the first prize for his intricate, European-inspired work entitled “Al Martir de Bagumbayan” (The Martyr of Bagumbayan) which, as you can see below, is reminiscent of those grandiose sculptures one can find in Europe. Being the first prize winner, it is expected that Nicoli’s work would get to be built, right? Well here’s where the story gets more interesting.

the Carlo Nicoli Rizal Monument (from Dennis Villegas at MyRizal150.com)

Somewhere along the way, the committee that handled the art competition decided that the work of second-placer Richard Kissling known as the “Motto Stella” would be the one that will be built instead. How did that happen? Unfortunately, records do not give a clear answer, but some theories have been raised as for the reason behind this decision:

a) Nicoli’s work required more money than what’s supposed to be allotted (which was around P100,000) and the required materials are not available here, which is against what was stipulated in the contract (materials should be local)

b) Nicoli backed out of the contract as he failed produce the required bond of P20,000 for the completion of the project; or

c) Nicoli failed to attend to the contract-signing.

the Richard Kissling Rizal monument AKA "Motto Stella" (from Dennis Villegas at MyRizal150.com)

As one can see, Kissling’s Rizal monument is simpler compared to the grandiosity of the Nicoli one. Then again, simplicity would perhaps be Kissling’s idea after all. Simplicity with symbolisms that perhaps represented Rizal’s ideals of family, (with representation of the mother rearing her child on Rizal’s right) education, (the figures of 2 boys reading on his left) and of being a Filipino. (the figures of banana plant, clay pot, and plow at the back)

the 4 views of the Rizal Monument; clockwise from top left: Rizal, 2 boys reading, mother rearing her child, banana plant with clay pot

It took years for this monument to be completed, but on Rizal Day of 1912, as it was nearing completion, a ceremony was held for the transfer of Jose Rizal’s remains from Paco Park to the base of the monument. Thus it came to pass that this monument would be one of the few examples of monuments that actually serves as a place of burial. Rizal monument would be formally unveiled exactly one year later as the centerpiece of the park that now bears the hero’s name.

Since then, Rizal monument has become THE definitive Philippine landmark even though one can’t help notice that the monument may have seen better days, especially in these times when people try to outdo one another in building the structures, whether it’s a building or a monument. (you can probably cite the Lapu-Lapu monument right across the Rizal one on the farther end) But perhaps it serves a representation of the Filipino spirit, which Rizal himself lived by: the underlying greatness and the ability to survive of the Filipino in spite of being overlooked by others, in spite of whatever obstacles or odds that come his way as he makes his own mark in moving his nation forward.

==================

Contrary to a number of misconceptions though, the Rizal monument was not actually built on the site where Rizal was shot. The placement of the monument as where it is right now is more of a product of aesthetics and strategic planning. Remember, as was mentioned earlier, the planning had been done by the Americans with Washington National Mall in mind. So the monument had to placed front and center, so to speak of the park complex.

The actual execution site is located a few meters away in the area facing what is now Padre Burgos St. If you have trouble looking it, you don’t have to worry as the area is marked today with life-sized sculptures depicting Rizal’s final moments, most especially his execution on December 30, 1896, even a marker on the ground that marks the spot where Rizal stood and fell to the guns of the government’s firing squad.

		Rizal execution site, Rizal Park VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

The place is also known as the Rizal Martyrdom Light and Sound Show, where a light and sound presentation was being held in the evenings, dramatizing Rizal’s final hours. I’m not sure if there are still such presentations being held today though.

Acknowledgements to MyRizal150.com for the additional information found here

To be continued…

© The Urban Roamer

Thus, in his honor, the rotonda plaza between the National Museum and Tourism buildings known as Agrifina Circle was renamed as the Valencia Circle.

But the circle is perhaps better known for longtime visitors to the park as a once-skating rink (which unfortunately is not a sight anymore to see in this circle, these days) and the centerpiece architecture. Of course, that particular architecture has changed over the years, from a fountain globe, to a sculpture of Inang Bayan, to the circle’s current occupant: a large statue of the first Filipino hero, Lapu-Lapu. Oscar statuette-inspired comments aside, some have criticized that the Lapu-Lapu statue is over towering that of the Rizal monument on the opposite end, which should not be the case since it is after all dedicated to Rizal in the first place.

the Globe Fountain at the circle circa 1960's

the Lapu-Lapu statue at the circle circa 2010's

But before we digress further, let’s move on to another famous landmark on this part of the park, in fact it’s the first landmark you’ll see if you’re coming from the Taft Avenue side. It’s the relief map of the Philippines which was recently renovated. There used to be a viewing deck of sorts so one can see the whole map from the top. Too bad it was demolished; I personally would have preferred getting it rebuilt rather than building a walkway which we see today.

along the relief map walkway is a gallery of different spots around the country which Rizal visited or are associated with

On the left of the map is the Children’s Playground, a place which one might be tempted to say to suffer an identity crisis with employing Jurassic, African, even fairty tale themes all in one spot. Entrance to the park would also entail a separate, albeit affordable, fees.

Rizal Park Children’s Playground VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

On the right side are the Halamanang Pilipino and the privately-maintained Orchidarium which also serves as a wedding venue on some occasions. The Orchidarium is the more well-maintained one though it is often closed to the public except for those special occasions like the ones I mentioned earlier.

One can also find a number of interesting sculptures around this part of the park, like these last 2 which were donated/commissioned by the Korean government.

the Filipino-Korean soldier monument

Soul Wave sculpture

up next, the Rizal monument

© The Urban Roamer

Despite the fierce resistance of the Filipino forces as the Revolution raged on, the Americans wasted no time in trying to cement their rule over the archipelago, with the virtues, visions, and ideals that America cherished. In the case of Manila, the Americans dreamed of giving the city a makeover from its Spanish heritage into a cosmopolitan American city. To be specific, a cosmopolitan American capital city, a la Washington D.C.

To set this dream into motion, the American colonial government invited over the famed American architect/urban planner named Daniel Burnham in 1905. At that time, Burnham was busy laying out the plans for Chicago and Washington; in the course of his visit, Burnham was inspired by Manila’s environment that he appropriated some of his ideas for the Chicago and Washington plans for his Manila plan.

American architect/urban planner Daniel Burnham

Burnham decided to make the old Bagumbayan Field as the centerpiece, so to speak, of his Manila Plan, transforming it as Manila’s National Mall like that in Washington DC. In this case, the Washington Monument would be a planned Rizal Monument with the National Capitol, AKA the Legislative Building on the opposite side. Surrounding the planned Capitol building would be a number of government buildings that will compliment the look of the Capitol.

taken from the web: the proposed National Mall for Manila, with the planned Capitol building at the center

To give you an idea of what Rizal Park would have been in Burnham’s eyes, have a look of this aerial shot of Rizal Park today…

…and compare it with this recent aerial shot of Washington D.C.’s National Mall

More or less, that’s what Burnham hoped Manila to be like.

Unfortunately funding issues and a shift in priorities, not least of which was the decision by the self-governing Philippine Commonwealth in the 1930’s to move the Capitol complex up north instead to what is now Quezon City, derailed the Capitol dreams planned for the area, which by then has now been called Rizal Park. However glimpses of those plans still remain today with the presence of the former Finance Building, now occupied by the National Museum’s Museum of the Filipino People and the former Agriculture Building, now the offices of the Department of Tourism, as well as the open space between these buildings that was known before as the AgriFina Circle. (named after the 2 aforementioned buildings)

the former Finance Building, now the Museum of the Filipino People of the National Museum

the former Agriculture Building, now office of the Department of Tourism

And with nothing much going on from then until the 1960’s, much of Rizal Park was a virtual wasteland of sorts, being left just bare and undeveloped. Though there were plans that popped up every now and then to “revitalize” the area, many of these plans only involved construction of more buildings as sort of pet projects of those who proposed them. Some criticized these plans as a disgrace to the memory of the person the park was named after, an act of virtual butchery over what’s supposed to be a place of history and pride.

By the early 1960’s, Rizal Park would find itself playing a new role, as it was designated as a National Park by then Pres. Diosdado Macapagal. He and his First Lady Eva Macapagal would be instrumental in reviving the park through the establishment of the National Parks Development Committee in 1963 which would oversee of the development of the country’s national parks: Rizal Park being one of them.

bust of Pres. Diosdado Macapagal, the father of the National Parks Development Committee (NPDC) along Orosa St., at the park's southern half

Another consequence was the expansion of the park, which now included the former planned Capitol grounds or then known as the AgriFina complex as Rizal Park’s northern extension.

to be continued…

Acknowledgements to the National Parks Development Committee and Skyscrapercity.com for the additional info found on this entry

© The Urban Roamer

Unless there are any disputes to this, (of which I am certain are just few and not that significant) there is no doubt that Manila’s number 1 tourist attraction would be the Rizal Park. In fact, Rizal Park is seen by some as what Manila is all about. While this perception may be unfair to the rich landscape the city has to offer, for good or ill, its popularity as Manila’s top destination among locals and tourists alike has made the park inextricably linked to the city, a showcase of what’s good and not so good of the city and the country as a whole encapsulated in its 50-hectare area. In a way, Rizal Park is Manila’s equivalent to New York City’s Central Park, only with a Statue of Liberty of sorts.

But before it became a park, the area we know today first began as a settlement located just outside the Intramuros walls that was established at the beginning of the 17th century. It was named “Nuevo Barrio” or “New Town” but it was more popularly known by its local name: Bagumbayan.

The task of administering the settlement’s religious matters fell upon the Augustinian Recollects who put up a church and convent dedicated to San Juan Bautista or John the Baptist in 1606. But this church was more popularly known as the first home of what would be a symbol of Manila Catholicism: the image of the Black Nazarene. That was at least until 1608, when it was moved to the larger Recollect church in Intramuros. The church/convent and settlement would remain for more than a hundred years until it was destroyed during the British occupation of 1762 as Bagumbayan was used by the British as a base from which they made their offensives against the Spaniards defenses in Intramuros, which turned out to be successful.

site of the former Recollect Parish of Bagumbayan

The Spaniards were so traumatized by the British experience that after the invasion, they decided to not rebuild Bagumbayan settlement anymore and was converted instead into a military barracks, given its proximity to the Manila Bay. A crescent-moon shaped plaza was built near the barracks, called the Paseo de Luneta or Plaza of the Lunette in 1820. Thus the origin of the park’s famous nickname, Luneta.

Bagumbayan and Paseo de Luneta in the 19th century (taken from the Internet)

Other than its use as military barracks, Bagumbayan became known as a killing field of sorts, especially during the late 19th century where the colonial government’s enemies, from criminals to political prisoners were being executed. Notable among those who died here were the Filipino priests Mariano Gomez, Jose Burgos, and Jacinto Zamora in February 17, 1872 for their alleged involvement in the 1872 Cavite Mutiny, the so-called Thirteen Martyrs (Trece Martires) of Cavite in September 11, 1896 for their participation in the Philippine Revolution, and perhaps the most famous among the martyrs, Jose Rizal on December 30 that same year.

memorial marking the execution site of Fathers Gomez, Burgos, and Zamora (AKA GomBurZa) in 1872, considered to be the watershed event for the eventual Philippine enlightenment and revolution against Spanish rule by the late 19th century

to be continued…

© The Urban Roamer

There are a lot of interesting places to see in Intramuros, but perhaps one thing that would stand out in this part of the city is the imposing structure that is the Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception AKA the Manila Cathedral, the seat of power of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila.

Given the vast influence of the Roman Catholic Church especially during the Spanish colonial era, it is but fitting that its seat in power in the capital city should be the most imposing of them all. Before Rizal monument, the Cathedral was the original “Kilometer 0” where all will begin, so to speak. Even today, as a sign of respect to the heritage of Intramuros, it is decreed under law that no building in the Walled City should exceed the height limit which is the height of the cathedral itself, up to its belltower.

However, the Manila Cathedral we see today is not the same church seen over the years. In fact its history has been marked by constructions and destructions caused by various catastrophes:

Manila Cathedral 1.0: (1581-1588) damaged by fire; destroyed by typhoon

Manila Cathedral 2.0: (1591-1600) destroyed by earthquake

Manila Cathedral 3.0: (1641-1645) destroyed by another earthquake

Manila Cathedral 4.0: (1681-1751) became structurally unsound due to typhoons & earthquakes; had to be demolished

Manila Cathedral 5.0: (1760-1852) destroyed by earthquake…again

Manila Cathedral 6.0: (1858-1870) destroyed by earthquake…for the nth time

Manila Cathedral 7.0: (1879-1945) casualty of war during the Battle for Manila

more than just some random artwork, the sculptures on these doors actually depict the history of the Manila Cathedral itself, from the time it was first built (the top left image) to its destruction in World War II (the bottom right image)

The present cathedral we see is the 8.0, as it was decided that the cathedral will be rebuilt on its original site, as it had always been the case, rather than relocate to the suburbs like what the other original Intramuros institutions did after the war. Designing the new cathedral fell in the hands of Fernando Ocampo, the same architect behind Escolta’s Calvo Building and the UST Central Seminary, who decided to draw inspiration on the architecture of Cathedral 7.0 that was designed by Vicente Serrano.

Work began for Cathedral 8.0 began in 1956 and was completed two years later, when it was reopened on the Catholic feast of the Immaculate Conception, the patroness the cathedral is dedicated to, on December 8, 1956 with the blessing of the then Manila Archbishop Rufino Cardinal Santos. (the same fellow under whom the hospital in San Juan is named after)

the ceremonial cement trowel used for the laying of the cornerstone of the Manila Cathedral 8.0 (from the collection of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila)

The cathedral is divided by several “chapels” on the side dedicated to some Catholic personages, as the cathedral is illuminated thanks to the natural light beaming through the stained glass artwork done by visual artist Galo Ocampo. (not sure if he’s related to the architect though)

some examples of the works of Galo Ocampo in the cathedral, from the rose window to the various windows depicting seals, persons, and events in the life of Christ and Mary as observed by Catholics

It’s interesting to note that there’s a crypt found underneath the Cathedral floors where some of the Manila archbishops were buried, including Cardinal Santos and Jaime Cardinal Sin. It has also served as funeral venue in recent years (a rare occurrence for a non-prelate funeral to be done here) for the funeral rites of former Pres. Corazon Aquino in 2009.

the one behind the person on the podium is the cathedra, or the archbishop's chair; thus a church is known as a cathedral if it serves as the bishop's or archbishop's seat of power

in the pre-Vatican II days especially, this place called the pulpit is where the Catholic priest gives his sermon; the pulpit in the Manila Cathedral is adorned with four sculptures showing the traditional representation of the four Gospel writers of the Bible

A recent addition to the Cathedral complex is the Bell Garden complex which houses the ground belfry where the Cathedral’s Seven Big Bells are kept after being moved from the tower belfry nearby as a safety measure to ease the tower of its load. The ground belfry itself used to be the former location of the tower belfry of Cathedral 7.0 that was destroyed by earthquake.

One thing also to note is the presence of pineapples throughout this building. It is said that the pineapple symbolizes not only the tropical environment of Manila but also the Manila Cathedral’s dynamic history that will persevere throughout the ages. Thus, if ever Cathedral 8.0 goes down sometime, whether we like it or not, we will get to see another one rise in its place. I guess, regardless of our religious beliefs, the story of the Manila Cathedral represents the Filipino spirit each one of us has and should live by, to pick ourselves up and rise again in spite of how great our fall may be.

Acknowledgements as well to the book Ciudad Murada by the Intramuros Administration and Traveler on Foot

© The Urban Roamer

Back in the Spanish colonial era, this area was once known as part of Plaza Arroceros, by itself a large open, green space which extended all the way to the present Manila City Hall. It is also significant as it is located near the old Chinese quarters or Parian, where Chinese immigrants first settled and did their business before they were moved to present Binondo.

When the Americans took over by the 1900’s, the old plaza was given a new name: Plaza Lawton. Named after Maj. Gen. Henry Lawton, a decorated American military official who served a colorful career, from the US Civil War and the Apache War of 1886, where his greatest achievement was in having the “adversary,” Apache chief Geronimo in this case, surrender. Ironically, he would die in action in 1899 during the Philippine American War (the highest ranking US military official killed in that war) in the hands of another Geronimo, Filipino Gen. Licerio Geronimo.

Maj. Gen. Henry Lawton (from Wikipedia)

The plaza would get a name change again in 1863, the centennial of Andres Bonifacio’s birth, as it was not only spruced up but was also given a Filipino name: Liwasang Bonifacio (Bonifacio Plaza) in honor of the person declared as “the hero of Manila,” though probably for sentimental reasons or something, some still call this area as Plaza Lawton.

Sadly though, the plaza has been a victim of poor maintenance even though it is a popular venue for photographers as well as public demonstrations. While the Liwasan got a new lease of life back during the administration of Lito Atienza in 2002, sadly these developments were not really taken care of, no thanks to the apathy shown by some vagrants who wander around this area.

Despite its state, there’s something about Liwasang Bonifacio that still makes it a popular Manila landmark. Maybe it’s the view of statue of Andres Bonifacio in the foreground of a majestic fountain that fronts the iconic Post Office Building makes this appeal timeless and special. Something I hope that future generations will still get to enjoy in the midst of the changes in the metropolitan landscape.

© The Urban Roamer